My winter coat I made when I lived in Tasmania , and for which I have needed to replace the lining of a couple of times since, is once again in need of help. This time, I decoded that it is worth replacing the whole coat, instead of repairing it.
progress log
to do
- cut the black wool pieces
- baste them to the lining and stitch labels as to which piece is which
- cut the lining a little bigger than the wool
- assemble the three triangles that make the back gore
- insert the back gore into the back body rectangle
- attach the extra front gores to the open side of the front body rectangles and finish the edges of the opening (leave the part above the gore undone, a collar piece will go there) (done this far 2026-09-08)
- sew the side gores to the side rectangles
- sew the fronts to the back at the shoulders
- sew the arms to the body
- sew the side rectangles + gores to the body
- design and cut the collar
- attach the collar
- design and cut the pockets
- attach the pockets
the days I worked on it
- 2026-09-08 doing my homework now both front pieces have their gore on the side that opens, and that side and the hems have been finished with osenstitch (as has the seams themselves). It has been some days since I finished putting the set of three gores into the central back slit.
- 2026-09-03 just work and a little creative painting
- 2026-09-01 a new month starts with a lot of work focus
- 2026-08-30 today’s runestones
- 2026-08-29 Holmrike Archery event
- 2026-08-28 roadtrip
- 2026-08-26 tillsvidare
- 2026-08-25 val utbildingen
- 2026-08-24 more design work
- 2026-08-22 the shopping gods decided I needed clothes
- 2026-08-21 luckily, there are local black currants
- 2026-08-20 a work adventure
- 2026-08-18 putting the class off till later
2026-08-16 more fabric acquired
Decided that the Maroon silk curtains would make a beautiful lining, and less weight than the Striped suit-weight wool. I suspect that in a couple of years, when the lining needs replacing, I will regret this, but in the short term I think I will like it. Got most of the pieces cut out. Basted the wool pieces to the silk, and then cut. Unlike my 2025-09-20 silk bliaut short tunic.jpg, this one will be consistent as to which side is out.
I will need to cut the sleeve lining later, but that can wair till after I modify the sleeves bycuttimg odd a triangle from the cuff ends of the aleeve and moving it to the shoulder emd.
2026-08-15 black currants and inspiration to start a project checked to see if I have enough fabric
Using the long piece of Narrow heavy black wool
Measure and mark from one end:
the pieces
| Piece | Measurement | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Front body | 130 x 20 cm | 2 |
| Narrow gores | 90 x 26; cut diagonal to make two | 4 |
| Side body | 125 x 20 | 2 |
| Arm front and back | 62 x 26 (take triangles off wrist and add to upper arms) | 4 |
| Back | 48 x 130 (take triangles to make waist) | 1 |
| Back center gore | 82.5 x 48 (3 piece center triangle cut) | 1 |
| Available | (143 x 47) + (83 x 26) | L shape to make collar, cuffs, more gores and or sleeves as needed |
- I have been thinking of this for a uear or theee, but finally wrote it up 2026-01-27 a long day
Motivation/plan
My old winter coat, which I made while still living in Australia, so 2009 or earlier is once again getting rather worn out. I have replaced the lining a couple of times previously, and I could do that again, but now I am wondering if it might just be time to start a brand new one, retaining all the best features of the orginal, and improving a few things?
Do I have enough of the Striped suit-weight wool left after lining 2024 Keldor’s laurel caftan to line a new coat? I think/hope so.
But what to make the outer layer from? I still have the Narrow heavy black wool, but there may not be enough left. While I like the wind proof nature snd water resistance of my current winter coat, fluffy snow tends to stick to it, so something smoother might be nice.
Features to keep from my current coat:
- ankel lenth
- full skirts to swirl nicely
- reflex pretty trim
- puffed sleeves
- cargo pockets with slip in side pockets behind
- slit in the slip in side pockets for reching through to get keys from their pocket
- inner cargo pockets at thigh height
improvements to make
- better neckline with more overlap for warmth
- lower the front cargo pockets to a more comfortable position with respect to my arms
- add a band of elastic to the top edge of the cargo pockets so they hold things in better, even if the magnets get separates and the flap opens
- outer breast pocket for telephone
- add reflex trim even to arms, and make the cuffs longer
- re-use current belt, but take off the reflex trim, and sew it down again covering the central seam.
- reuse current buttons, but do better buttonholes
- do I want a built on shoulder cape? Or is my separate hood and mantel plus mittens on reflex straps fine?